Aliya and Rukuri

Traditional meat preservation methods have been studied and acknowledged for years. Why? Perhaps it’s because there’s been that occasional question of ‘how did people ever survive without fridges?’ Maybe it’s because as nutritionists have studied food practices from past times, it’s become clear that certain foods were cooked and enjoyed for their taste. 

When it comes to traditional meat dishes that held prominence in the preservation list and were among savoury dishes among Kenyan communities, two come to mind: Aliya and Rukuri. 

Aliya. Image sourced from Kenyan Digest

Aliya is sundried beef, popular among the Luo. In its preparation process is the art of meat preservation. After acquiring the meat, salting and drying meat are common ways to preserve it. These methods did one simple thing: they removed water from meat. As a result, the growth of bacteria is averted, and in turn, the degradation process is slowed down. Thinking back to past times, it’s easy to understand that meat was left out in the sun to dry completely. And while this hardened the meat, it also enhanced its flavour. 

To date, many Luo culinary experts opt for the sun drying method, while others opt to smoke meat in a closed jiko. This step may well be rooted in culture as it remains a critical step in preparing Aliya. It gives the meat a smoky taste or concentrates the natural flavour of the meat.  

The next step is to boil the meat for about 4 hours (until it’s tender), and add condiments such as onions, tomatoes, and preferred spices to create a delicious Aliya stew. 

Aliya stew, osuga and ugali. Image sourced from H. Kaakwacha

Honey and Meat Preservation

The Kikuyu opted for a different but equally efficient preservation technique. The first step was roasting the meat. Just like with Aliya, this step dried out the meat but also imparted a desired smoked flavour. The meat was roasted over a low flame to prevent the outside from burning and allow the insides to dehydrate completely. But roasted meat can only last a few days without going bad, which necessitated the next step: coating the meat in honey.  

In addition to being herders, the Kikuyu were also beekeepers. They possessed the traditional knowledge that honey does not spoil due to its high acidity and low water content. When applied to a food substance, it created an airtight seal that prevented the growth of bacteria. The roasted meat underwent this honey treatment, which was then allowed to dry. The result was Rukuri, a preserved meat that could be stored for months.  

Today Aliya is mostly boneless as the meat is initially chopped into bite-size pieces. Many people prefer to buy it cooked because the preparation process takes time, and likely because Aliya is best prepared by an Aliya expert. Rukuri, on the other hand, is not as widely consumed as it was in the past. This delicacy is now reserved for special occasions, when the old recipe is put to use, and the result is meat glazed in honey.  

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