Memorable Kisumu

The marketplace is buzzing with people. They all have one thing in common, they have come to eat Mama Ochieng’s famous fried fish. Welcome to the famous county of Kisumu, where Mama Ochieng’ is known for selling not only fish, but also stories. 

“Do you know the Kano Plains between Nandi and Nyabondo?” Mama Ochieng asks louder than the sound of the fish she just dropped into a pan of hot oil. A chorus of different voices respond, some with yes and others with no. This motivates her to start her storytelling. 

“Kano plains is where a Luo warrior was born. He was strong! He was fast! And no spear could pierce his skin,” Mama Ochieng says, flexing her own soft arms as her listeners laugh. 

Mama Ochieng continues with her narration, “This saviour of the Luo, who protected his people from the Lang’o, the name we called our neighbouring Nandi community that was always attacking us. This very strong and fast man was born there, and his name was….…” 

“Luanda Magere!” The crowd shouts in unison. 

Wawira is visiting Mama Ochieng’s for the first time with her mother, they watch this fun loving crowd from the door way. 

“I have never seen you here, are you a visitor?” a girl asks Wawira. 

“Yes, my name is Wawira and we heard that the best place to buy fish is at Mama Ochieng’s,” Wawira says. 

“I am Achieng’ and my brother is Ochieng’. He is the one bringing in fish,” the girl says pointing at the door. 

“Does that mean Mama Ochieng’ is your mother?” Wawira asks. 

Achieng nods yes and ushers for her to listen to the story being told.

“It was impossible to defeat Luanda Magere, and it looked like the Lang’o people wanted peace after being defeated so many times. They gave one of their young and beautiful women as a wife to Luanda Magere,” Mama Ochieng’ says, taking out a beautifully fried Nile perch from the pan, which she then wraps up in brown paper to keep it fresh and warm. 

“And her name was…” 

 “NYAR LANG’O!” the guests shout again in unison. 

 “Why does her name mean?” Wawira asks Achieng’. 

 “Nyar means ‘she is from’. Women used to be addressed according to where they came from, Nyar Lang’o = From Lang’o,” Achieng’ replies. 

 “She was very beautiful and took good care of Luanda Magere. Then one day he fell sick, and she asked him how she should help,” Mama Ochieng says. 

 “Luanda Magere told her his secret, that to heal she needed to cut his shadow and apply the medicine,” Mama Ochieng’ continues as she slices a fresh fish in half. 

 “When Nyar Lang’o cut his shadow and blood came out, her true intentions were revealed. Come back tomorrow to hear the rest,” Mama Ochieng’ says as she hands Wawira’s mother and other customers their orders. 

There is a low murmur of disapproval, but the customers leave very peacefully. As soon as people begin leaving, others replace their spot.  

“Mum, do you know how the story of Luanda Magere ends?” Wawira asks her mother. 

“Yes. Turns out, Nyar Lang’o had been sent by the Lang’o people to win Luanda Magere’s trust and find his weakness, so she pretended to be a loving wife. She then told her people his weakness and they struck his shadow which turned him into a very big stone along Nyando River,” Wawira’s mother says. 

“What an amazing story,” Wawira says.  

“What else can you tell me about Kisumu?” she asks curiously. 

“Well Kisumu is a county of firsts; they had the first first female mayor in the country in 1965? Her name was Grace Onyango, she was also the first woman to be elected as a member of parliament,” her mother says. 

Mother continued to explain that the Kisumu International Airport was the largest airport to handle international flights to for example London for several years in East and Central Africa. 

Kisumu is home to trailblazers.