The songs of children tell us a lot about our culture. And when these songs are about food, it’s usually because the food is particularly iconic in one way or another. These songs speak about the love of the people who eat it for that food. From the Western part of Kenya comes a fish dish with a special song.
‘Shivambla, shivambla. Meta matsi, meta matsi’
In order to preserve a day’s catch, the fishermen of the past took to sun-drying the fish. In this way, should the supply be somehow interrupted, there would always be fish to enjoy. Because of the size of the fish, its preparation was carried out by the adults. In order to ensure cleanliness and a fish that was entirely ready to be dried, an expert hand was required. Placed on a clean surface in the direct sunlight, the scaled, gutted fish would be left to dry for three weeks to a month.
This drying process makes the shivambla hard and crispy. If one tries to bend it, it cracks and splinters like light wood. The drying process preserves it entirely and it can be kept for a long time without going bad. Because of the careful cleaning and drying involved in the process of making shivambla, it is quite expensive to buy at the market. Thus, it is usually prepared when visitors will be in the home.
In the communities where shivambla is enjoyed, it is seen as a delicacy. And though the smell of dried fish can be overwhelming while it cooks, everyone comments on how tasty the final product is. Because of the toughness that forms during the drying process, the shivambla must first be soaked in warm water before it is sauteed or stewed. Further aiding the process of softening, a little traditional baking soda (mushelekha) is added during the stewing time. Usually prepared with a standard kitunguu na nyanya fry, the fish absorbs the flavors wonderfully while maintaining its own tastiness.
It is at this time that the children playing outside begin to sing: shivambla, shivambla, meta matsi, meta matsi. This translates to ‘shivambla, add water.’ The song advises that if it is shivambla stewing on the stove, then the ugali accompanying it should be bigger, thus the need for more water. Of course, following the children’s song, it is accompanied to the table by the extra-large ugali and an assortment of greens.
