There is a rare and treasured delicacy that comes only with the rains and leaves with them. The delicacy is known as onyoso to the Luo and Abaluyha communities. Scientifically, onyoso – or black ants – go by carebara vidae. During the long rains between February and May, these black ants can be harvested. But after the rains have passed, they can only be sighted in between the occasional rainy day. So, when the moody clouds of a rainy day recede, the Luo and Abaluyha communities have traditionally foraged for the ants.
The onyoso is typically found crowded around the mouths of their underground nests between 11 am and 3 pm. As they crawl out to meet the sun peeking out after the rains, it is the perfect time to collect them.
In preparation for eating, the insect’s wings are expertly plucked. From there, they typically remain in a container while they air dry for a period of about 14 days. They are then salted for maximum taste. Some prefer to eat them raw and may also remove the head before consumption.
A Special Kind of Ant
As one of only two edible ant species in the Lake Victoria region, picking these insects out accurately is a necessary skill. Often, the ants are highly inconspicuous. They shyly come out of the ground and fly away, blending in with other, lesser valued black ants.
So how can you tell what is onyoso and what is any other black ant? The onyoso is known for its shiny black exterior. The females, which are mainly eaten, can be identified by their swollen abdomens that make them big-bellied. They are also notably twice the size of their male counterparts.
Some onyoso eaters exclusively prefer the females’ bellies because the oil found on them gives the ants a delicious flavour. Often, these insects are even fried in their own oil and eaten as a crunchy snack.
Taste and Nutrition in Equal Measure
Alongside its incredible taste, onyoso is revered as an incredibly nourishing food. Elders in the Luo community would eat the ants to ward off illnesses and the oil on the female ants has been believed to be concentrated in healing power. While this was a traditional belief, science has certainly supported that onyoso is a great source of iron, zinc and calcium. These nutritional benefits are likely what made onyoso a useful tool against physical ailments for Luo elders.
But it is not just the female bellies that provide these benefits. Both male and female ants have been eaten and the entirety of the onyoso is edible as well as nutrient-rich.
These days onyoso is a rare commodity. It is rarely sold in markets because the species is under threat of extinction. Any harvests are precious and normally not large enough to sell. The ants, however, remain a true delicacy and example of a traditional Kenyan snack that is big in taste as well as nutrition.
Have you ever foraged for onyoso? Do you prefer to eat only the bellies or to remove the heads? Tell us in the comments!
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