There is a legend full of betrayal, mystery and intrigue that lives on the shores of Wasini Island. One version of the tale begins with a war between the Wavumba people of Wasini and the Chifundi on the mainland. Wily young men from Wasini managed to convince Mwaozi Tumbe – the daughter of the Chifundi ruler – to betray her kin. They urged her to raise false alarms while the Wavumba stole into Chifundi territory and took precious drums. Though Mwaozi expected a great reward for this act, the Wavumba carried her away alongside the drums, deeming her to be untrustworthy.
Mwaozi took to life on Wasini and even took a husband there. But her treachery continued, and she would often invite mainland visitors to her new island home. Upon arrival, she would entice them to sit on a fine mat. Little did they know that it collapsed into a pit where they would be left to die. In fear of her malevolent nature, the Wavumba resolved to abandon Mwaozi on Kisite Island – just south of Wasini. This was where she starved to death.
The Curse of Mwaozi
But the wrath of Mwaozi did not cease. After her death, the rains failed in Wasini and on the mainland. After consulting with diviners, the Wavumba were informed that they must return Mwaozi’s remains for the blessing of rain to return. On the trip to bury her bones in Wasini, a turbulent storm carried the Wavumba to the opposite end of Wasini. The villagers of Mkwiro inhabiting the area were requested to provide a coffin, grave and stone to mark Mwaozi’s resting place. Still, Mwaozi did not relent. The Wavumba returned to her grave to beseech her for rain. Lo and behold, before the Wavumba went back to their end of the island, the skies opened, and rain poured. Every year after, the Wavumba visited Mwaozi Tumbe’s grave to ensure that the rains fell.
A Chequered History
Though the story of Mwaozi Tumbe straddles the line between myth and historical fact, what is confirmed are the developments that took place in Wasini in the 18th century. Research places the arrival of the Wavumba on Wasini in 1700. They originated from a place called Vumba Kuu and are said to have been forced onto Wasini Island after being ousted by vicious attacks from a group called the Wadoe from Dar-es-Salaam. Under these untenable conditions, Diwan Ruga – the Wavumba leader – valiantly led his people to find a new home on Wasini Island.
Wavumba oral traditions tell of the immense wealth Diwan Ruga amassed through precious ivory with Chinese merchants while on the island. In fact, the name Wasini meant short Chinese people.
A Growing Trade
Soon enough, the Wavumba were not the only people who called Wasini home. Arabs hailing from Pemba, Zanzibar, Yemen and Oman landed on the island’s shores and set up a slave trade. Slaves were held at Shimoni – a town on the mainland opposite the island. They were placed in holding cells awaiting ships from Zanzibar. These vessels would then take them to slave markets in the Middle East, Europe and the Far East. The island was a slavers haven with its convenient location near Zanzibar where many of these enslavers lived. While slaves contemplated an uncertain future at Shimoni, their captors would regroup at Wasini where their settlement thrived.
Aberrant slaves would be transferred from Shimoni to be imprisoned on the impenetrable Wasini. Once there, there was no escape. The island is covered in razor-sharp corals that would mercilessly pierce the foot of anyone who dared pass. Pieces of the prisoners’ suffering remain on the island. The iron handcuffs that restricted their freedom hang coated in rust, attached to walls that have seen the agony of a people.
With the arrival of European settlers and the division of Africa, Wasini was declared a part of German East Africa. The British called for the abolition of the slave trade and later took over the island in 1963.
Wasini Today
Since becoming a Kenyan territory, Wasini Island has grown into a must-see area. All the trappings of the ideal tropical destination are found there. Travellers make their way to this Kenyan gem from all over the world and are rewarded with fascinating glimpses of the remarkable wildlife the island has to offer. At the Kisite Mpuguti Marine Park, thrill seekers can take a deep dive into the island’s surrounding waters. While there, they have the opportunity to come face-to-face with intricate coral gardens, dolphins, green sea turtles and even the occasional humpback whale!
Whether you know it as Lamu’s little sister, the Jewel of the Indian Ocean or the Home of Dolphins, Wasini is an unmissable Kenyan island. Its intrigue lies not only in its breathtaking biodiversity but also in its rich history.
Is this gorgeous island on your bucketlist? Tell us about your experiences on this magical island!