After several unsuccessful attempts to conquer Mombasa, the Portuguese finally overthrew the Arabs in 1589. By this time, they had control over Sofala (Mozambique) and Kilwa (Tanzania), which were both conquered in 1505. Soon after, they divided the Swahili coast into a northern and southern sector. The northern sector was controlled from Fort Jesus whose construction began in 1593, and included city states such as Mombasa, Zanzibar, Malindi and Kilwa. The southern sector was headquartered in Fort São Caetano whose construction began in 1505 and included Sofala and Mozambique Island city states.
Mozambique was part of the Mutapa Empire which stretched from Zimbabwe to the coast of Mozambique. There was consistent supply of gold, mined in Zimbabwe, and shipped out from Mozambique. This eventually made the southern sector more profitable than the northern sector, and few Portuguese went against the tide by settling in Mombasa. However, even with this small population, a settlement (mostly consisting of soldiers who garrisoned Fort Jesus) sprang up next to the Fort. Others that were in this group were Portuguese from Goa, and a handful of locals from other parts of the coast.
Mombasa’s first recorded street was a main street that ran through the settlement. It was a footpath used to access the Fort. It was also the amenities street, where a customs house, a church, a few shops and merchant houses were located.
The settlement population grew even after the end of Portuguese rule. With time, the street running through this neighbourhood was christened Ndia Kuu – a name from the Mvita dialect that means “Main Street”. Successive rulers of Mombasa, from the Mazrui to the Al-Busaidi and the British, centered themselves within this area due to its proximity to the Fort and the Harbour. Some of the notable sites which were established along Ndia Kuu Road through the years are Reitz House, the old Portuguese Church, and the Mazrui Graveyard.
By the turn of the 20th century, the area traversed by Ndia Kuu Road had become a melting pot of different cultures. Africans, Arabs, Asians, and Europeans settled in this region and developed it into a major business and residential area. A system of neighbourhoods called “mitaa” developed along this street. Each ‘mtaa’ consisted of a group of houses whose members extended from the same family. Ndia Kuu Road grew to form part of Mombasa town – now referred to as Old Town. The buildings that line its street showcase a unique blend of architecture drawn from different parts of the world. Hand carved doors, wooden balconies and decorative fascia boards have contributed to the colourful character of this street.
A walk down Ndia Kuu Road is a reminder of the rich history of Mombasa town, an ode to its past and a nod to its present.
