Mombasa is not just the gateway to Africa but also a hub of tourist attractions, key among them being its vast array of coastal street pleasantries and food. The Mama Ngina Waterfront, formerly known as Mama Ngina Drive, is a seafront recreational space teeming with the region’s coveted street food.
Street Food Heaven
Backdropped by the sun’s golden glow against water, Mama Ngina comes alive with the sizzling sound of grills and hot oil frying snacks here and there. Each of the over 70 stalls lined up at the drive is adorned with beautiful fabrics, cowries and other curios alongside lanterns that flicker at night. This embellishes Mama Ngina Waterfront with an unmatched vibrancy that attracts many to witness. Additionally, the air around the waterfront is a blend of refreshing ocean breeze and fragrant ambience wafting with spices that endear everyone – families, friends and visitors – to sample its culinary spectacle that never fails to tantalise taste buds.
Here, you are spoilt for choice. If tubers tickle your palate nicely, you have a generous serving of hot masala (fried cassava garnished with chilli and a dash of lemon juice), kachiri (cassava crisps), and potatoes in all their versatile forms with bhajia and katlesi (stuffed potato cutlets) reigning supreme. Snack enthusiasts and sour teeth are also not left behind as they have an endless treat to sweets and savoury snacks ranging from vitumbua (coconut rice cakes), mahamri, and mbaazi ya nazi (pigeon peas in coconut sauce) sold across the drive.
Besides these tasty treats, the drive is also a haven for mouthwatering grilled seafood sourced fresh from the ocean’s bounty. All this is washed down with energising coconut water (madafu) and the coast’s signature refreshment, tamarind juice (ukwaju).
From Park to Waterfront
For all its luminous presence, Mama Ngina Waterfront has a complex and fascinating history. Firstly, it is believed to be as old as Fort Jesus. For that, it is a place of pride and history for coastal natives that’s protected with dedication. The first-ever directives to preserve this park is thought to date back to the 1970s but it was only until 2005 that the National Museums of Kenya officially gazetted it as a protected area.
Despite this official gazettement, the park deteriorated with time, prompting coastal leaders to seek the government’s hand in its preservation. Following this outcry, the park was renovated in 2019, restoring its lustre and glory and paving the way for integrated urban tourism. It was redesigned with people and nature in mind.
Today, Mama Ngina Waterfront thrives as a place of community where people from different walks of life gather to explore Mombasa and experience the gracious hospitality that characterises our coast. Its #StreetFoodKenya experience is one of its kind, a plunge into a sea of flavourful outbursts.