Taita Taveta, land of majestic hills that kiss the sky, and undulating savannah plains. This land, both rocky and rich, was home to the Mwangeka wa Malowa, hero, soldier and Chief of the Taita people.

Mwangeka was born in Mwanda Kwa Weni Ngasu around 1842. A wealthy man, he had three wives, Zighe Mshote, Mfwa Mwaghowa, and Mfwa Ndaghina from Msudu, Kashinyi and Mwanda Njawuli villages respectively. Mwangeka led his people in a sustained resistance against the invasion that was colonial rule. At his command was a Taita army, which watched over all the long-distance trade routes from Mombasa through Taru, Voi, Mwatate, Taveta to Kilimanjaro.

As the controller of the route Mwangeka levied taxes on coastal traders for the right and protection of passage. Some traders also signed treaties, mtero with Mwangeka to ensure their well-being. However, some of the Arab traders did not take this kindly and viewed it as disrespectful to the Sultan despite the fact that it was his people’s territory.

The lands of the wa Taita were increasingly attractive to many outsiders. The British, under the Imperial British East Africa Company were eager to expand into Taita territories, and the coastal traders under the Sultan threw in their lot with the British. In 1892, a British Captain, led a joint battalion of British soldiers and soldiers allied to the Sultan into Taita Taveta to destroy Mwangeka’s influence. As with other military incursions, the British soldiers did what they were infamous for, plundering, torture and destruction. But when they faced Mwangeka’s soldiers at Mwashoti they met fierce resistance. It took the British one month to get to the Taita hills because the terrain favoured Mwangeka’s soldiers who were stationed atop. Even thought they were armed with guns, the British were sent scampering down the hills in retreat. They were no match for the shrewd military tactics of Mwangeka and his soldiers.

The fall of Mwangeka as it turns out, was from betrayal by one of his own tribesmen. Mbogholi wa Samaghembe leaked Mwangeka’s military tactics to the intelligence wing of the British Army after being bribed. With that information, the soldiers to Mlughi village where he torched houses and hurt innocent villagers. A certain ally of Mwangeka, Isanga Iwishi sent him a message that the British were oppressing his people in Bura and Mwashoti. Even after being forewarned of his death by the walaghui (fortunetellers), Mwangeka was determined to save his people. Leading his soldiers to Mwashoti and Mlughi a great battle ensued. Perhaps due to treachery, much needed reinforcements did not come in good time and in the fight a British bullet found its mark, Mwangeka.

Mwangeka’s soldiers could not believe that their leader was dead. Even the loss of many Taita soldiers could not compare to the grief of Mwangeka’s demise. Mnjala Wa Ruma, Mwangeka’s second in command gathered his people into the Vuria caves which were their last line of defence. After the intervention of the French missionaries, there was peace in the land but the trade routes were now under the control of the British.