In the hall of fame of legendary Kenyan textiles, the Maasai shuka may just be the most recognisable cloth. Though it is now synonymous with the identity of many Kenyans, the story of the shuka is rooted in culture that was taken out of its original context and lost to time.
The Original Maasai Shuka
Answers about the origin of the shuka lie firmly in the culture and language of the Maasai people. The word shuka means body wrappings in the Maasai language. The textile has been around for over 1500 years and was traditionally produced with animal hides and skin rubbed with red ochre – a natural clay earth pigment also used by the Maasai to dye their hair.
The colour serves as a form of camouflage in red savannahs full of predators such as lions. The type of shuka one wore was determined by a Maasai’s age, sex, and place. With natural dyes such as ochre, the Maasai were able to create colours including blue, green and black. Black shukas were the reserve of young men in the midst of circumcision while red symbolised courage. The cloth is typically draped around one’s shoulders in different styles.
The Texture of the Shuka
In the 1800 to 1900s, the textile began to be made of a material called “Amerikani” or “Merikani”. This was an American textile made of unbleached muslin that landed in East Africa on ships. As an ode to the original hides and skins used to create the Maasai cloth, the community began to rub the muslin with fat and ochre to mimic a skin-like texture. At this time, the cloth was un-patterned.
The shift away from greased muslin cannot be pinpointed with accuracy but around the 1990s, manufacturers began to produce woolly synthetic cloth that was likely acrylic. These then replaced the muslin that was popular and led to the blanket-like cloth many Kenyans are familiar with today.
The Iconic Shuka Pattern
There is much debate about whether the recognisable shuka pattern was influenced by Scottish tartan. One theory is that Scottish missionaries in the early 20th century influenced the adoption of the tartan-like print. Other theories suggest that Scottish influence was introduced by PD Dodhia – the primary manufacturer of the shuka for decades in the 1900s.
Some dissent the theory about Scottish influence by emphasising that the Maasai community has been documented to have names for the patterns inspired by animal coat patterns, vegetation patterns and even cloud patterns. This theory suggests that Maasai people began to trade with missionaries for cotton that they then dyed and patterned using long-established traditional methods.
Maasai Intellectual Property
The shuka’s unmistakeable blazing reds, greens, blues and checkered patterns have travelled the world over and made it an enviable textile to many. In 2011, the iconic shuka found itself on a Louis Vuitton runway – an event that drew criticism for failing to pay royalties to Maasai communities for the shuka-inspired collection on display. Worse still, the Paris-based fashion house patented the shuka and took legal ownership of this Maasai heritage.
To counter the use of these traditional items for commercial gain, groups such as the Maasai Intellectual Property Initiative (MIPI) have worked to ensure the Maasai retain ownership over their cultural heritage. The group has estimated that the Maasai are owed around $10 million every year in licensing fees from international brands using items such as the Maasai shuka for profit.
While the shuka has a complex history regarding its origins and ownership, the creativity and vibrance of Maasai culture shine through it. Shukas have become a symbol of Kenyan pride and are used across the country for blankets on cold July days, uniforms to represent the country in world athletics events and everything in between!
Do you own a Maasai shuka? How do you use it? Let us know in the comments!