Serenity is the word that best describes the feeling when one arrives in Kilifi town. Tuk tuks, boda bodas and black mambas are the order of the day in this coastal town. Overlooking the Indian Ocean, Kilifi is a town that sits on both sides of an estuary and is linked by a bridge, the Kilifi Bridge. The north part of the town consists of the central business district and the alluring Bofa beach famous for its white sands, cooling breeze but most importantly, it’s cleanliness. The south side is where one finds the Mnarani Ruins and the Shauri Moyo beach.
The Mnarani Ruins date back to the 13th Century when Omani Arabs came to the East African Coast to trade. Because business thrived, they settled in Kilifi, building their residences at Mnarani. However, frequent attacks from the Galla community caused them to flee and settle in other coastal towns that were more secure. The Ruins can still be found overlooking the Kilifi Creek and the presence of two mosques and several tombs gives further evidence of a settlement in ancient history. Mnarani is a Swahili word meaning ‘the towering place’ which makes sense since in order to get to the Ruins, one must climb 107 steps. While the trek may seem daunting, it’s all worth it when you get to the top and enjoy the spectacular view. The breeze from the sea is destined to cool you off and the birds in the trees will welcome you with their songs. The clean compound is ideal for picnics and for the lovers of nature, the Ruins have a clear view of the Mnarani Creek where fishermen’s dhows are ever present.
Historically, due to its nearness to the ocean, Kilifi was a famous fishing village inhabited by the Giriama and Chonyi subtribes of the Mijikenda. And later, the area’s consistent produce of cashews encouraged urbanization. The establishment of a cashew milling factory in the 70s gave rise to further growth between 1976 and 1990.
A kilometer from the town is a cozy eco-lodge that has established itself as the melting pot of Kilifi. The Distant Relatives Eco-Lodge and Backpackers invites backpackers from around the world to mingle, relax and most importantly, enjoy the wonders Kilifi has to offer. Distant Relatives has a mix of mud-walled dormitories and cottages as well as the option of camping. The showers are outdoors made from and under the shade of Bamboo trees. What’s more fascinating about the lodge is its nearness to the creek. Guests have access to the ocean at all times and at 10:00 P.M. visitors get a chance to witness a magical moment. On some nights, planktons race along the ocean’s edge, emitting blue lights that colour the waters.
Kilifi, a town of wonders, serenity and history.
