Little is known about El Wak, the town that sits on the border between Kenya and Somalia. This town is nestled in expansive white sands stretching out as far as the eye can see, a phenomenon which has earned it the name “White City.” But like all Kenyan towns, El Wak holds a wealth of stories, and its long history has shaped the culture of those who call it home.
“Only rivers, rain, and El Wak furnish real water, and all other waters are deceits.” This is an Oromo proverb inspired by the El Wak wells that date back to the 17th century and after which the town is named. The name El Wak hails from the Somali language and translates into, “the wells of God.” There are about 50 wells spread across the town, each approximately 60 feet deep with interconnected underground passages. The origin of these wells has puzzled many archaeologists. Some believe that they are naturally occurring, while others are convinced that the wells were dug out using stone tools.
The wells of this desert town have sustained the livelihood of locals, providing water to generations of nomadic pastoralists who traversed the region with their livestock. While many of the wells have succumbed to age, others are still in great condition and continue to keep residents of the White City hydrated.
How many Kenyan forts can you name? Fort El Wak, which stands in the middle of this town’s centre, should be included on this list. Its tall faded white limestone walls stand in stark contrast with the surrounding buildings.
While the date of the fort’s construction remains unclear, its importance in Kenya’s historical journey is undisputed. In 1940, during World War II, Italian troops began advancing into Kenya from the north, eager to expand their territory into one of Britain’s colonies. A fierce battle ensued between the two European nations. At the time, the British had full control of the fort, which gave them an advantage over their rival nation. It is here that the British cemented their regional win thanks to the protection offered by Kenya’s northern-most fort. Fort El Wak has long since been relieved of her wartime duties and currently serves as the town’s police post.
El Wak is a town that holds many mysteries. No doubt, there’s someone out there with answers to some of our questions.
