Markets are well-appreciated for being one-stop shops where one can get everything under the sun all in one place. And if you ask a Nairobi local where to get the freshest meat, flowers and everything in between, they are likely to point you in the direction of the famed City Market. 

With 276 registered tenants, this building on Muindi Mbingu street attracts visitors amounting to a considerable 20,000 every single month! It is also a national monument with extensive protections. Therefore, one might wonder: how did this building smack dab in the middle of town come to be one of our national monuments? 

The Rise of a New Market 

To begin to understand this, the developments in Nairobi at the beginning of the 20th century are key. Before the inception of City Market, the concept of a municipal market in Nairobi was floated on April 16, 1900. The idea was published in the Nairobi Municipal Regulations released on this date. This document detailed grand plans to manage and expand Nairobi under the leadership of a committee which eventually grew into a council. The group fronted architectural developments in the city and the need for a market became a cornerstone of their vision.  

At the time, the market serving Nairobians was the Jevanjee Market. Built in 1904 by the Indian merchant and philanthropist Alibhai Mulla Jeevanjee, the market had a brilliant future as a hub for developing trade with Europe. But this was not to be, and Jevanjee Market was blamed for the outbreak of a plague in 1908. Allegations of unhygienic conditions rocked the market. And with Nairobi creeping ever outwards in the 1920s, the need for a competitive municipal market befitting of an advancing city was unavoidable. Subsequently, in 1932, Jevanjee’s fate was sealed. The market was brought down and replaced by the newer, shinier City Market.  

A Market Ahead of its Time 

Inside the new building were the primary market hall, market stalls, offices and some unique architectural touches. The vaulted ceilings of the market were akin to the Lawrence Hall in London. This was one of only two Royal horticultural halls in the English city. This signature Art Deco style was accompanied by genius architecture such as the glass windows facing the North and South to let in natural light but avoid overheating. Courtyards surrounding the main hall also meant that cool air circulated in the building. Interestingly, even the building’s glossy cream white colour strategically reflected the sun’s rays for a cool environment. And these are just some of the brilliant features put in place to make sure City Market remained cool and functional without the use of excess electricity. 

More than being a place for shopping, City Market was a building quite ahead of the curve. It remains a clear indication that sustainable architecture has existed in Kenya since the early 1900s. As it grew, it became a source of livelihood for mainly African vendors and farmers.  

The Fight for Protection 

In 1992, a scuffle for City Market’s parking lot between a minister of the day and traders raised the alarm that it needed protection. Although the vendors’ case to recover the land was thrown out of court, Wangari Maathai was involved in tearing down a fence put up to wrongfully cordon off City Market land. Later, in 2009, the area was gazetted as a national monument . The declaration was a much-needed measure. It ensured the historic site could not be developed without input from the National Museums of Kenya. 

If you wandered around City Market as of September 2022, you would find it has been newly painted with bold splashes that make up spunky murals. You may also notice that the inside of the building is partitioned into four sections. These include the curio section where one can find an enticing rainbow of cultural artefacts. There is also the unmissable butchery section where choice cuts of meat sought after by individuals and restaurants abound. Out of this section comes the unmistakable smell of fish that characterises the market. The butcheries are followed by the mouth-watering nyama choma section if one fancies a succulent taste of traditional roasted meat. In the fourth section, stalls are adorned with radiant, freshly picked flowers bound to put a smile on one’s face.  

Overall, City Market’s intriguing history, architecture, and continued role as a shopping hub in a league of its own have made it a Nairobi Monument for the books.  

Is City Market your go-to for shopping? Which section are you likely to be found shopping in? Share with us some of your favourite City Market finds! 

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