In 2008, the Mijikenda Kaya Forests were inscribed as World Heritage Sites. The Forest sites are 11 in number and consist of remains of fortified Mijikenda villages (kayas). The kayas are spread over 200 kilometres of the Kenyan Coast.
But what makes these locations so special? It all goes back to a time in the 16th Century…
According to oral tales of the Mijikenda history, there was once a time when the WaMijikenda – as they were known back then – lived with the WaPokomo, WaSwahili, WaTaita, and WaOromo in a place north of the Tana River known as Shungwaya. Living in a large group had its benefits, but it also had its challenges. The latter ultimately led to the dispersion of these communities.
It all started with a dispute between a Mijikenda youth and an Oromo tribesman. Emotions ran high and the Mijikenda youth murdered the Oromo tribesman. As was custom in times of conflict, the matter was presented before a jury and deliberated. The verdict was that the WaMijikenda were to compensate the WaOromo through payment – though the details of payment aren’t clear. Still, the order was made. However, the WaMijikenda failed to pay the WaOromo, and as is said in present day narratives, “it ended in tears”.
The WaMijikenda faced a series of hostility and ill-treatment from the WaOromo and eventually grew tired of the discomfort. They fled Shungwaya in groups and migrated south into a dense forest that spread thousands of kilometers along the coast of the Indian Ocean. This group migration is said to be one of the ways the nine Mijikenda sub-tribes were born.
While the tribes all migrated towards the Kenyan coast, they settled in different locations. Within each settlement were several homesteads which they named Kayas, in the thick coastal forest (the Arabuko Sokoke Forest).
The WaMijikenda lived in these Kayas up until around 1940. By then, the Swahili coast had grown and modernised, welcoming visitors from both the interior and the exterior. In the years leading up to 1940, most of the coastal woodland where majority of the Kayas were built had been cleared for development.
Yet, despite most kayas being deserted, there continued to be groups of Mijikenda people and advocates of culture and history, who worked towards preserving the sites for their sacredness and link to living tradition. These efforts bore fruit when the Kayas were inscribed as Heritage Sites. Today, these areas are maintained by Mijikenda Council of Elders.
Kaya Kinondo is one of the 11 Kayas and is located south of Diani Beach in Msambweni. This Kaya is known for its trees that are over 1,000 years old, a good number of which are rare. Kaya Kinondo is also listed as a national monument.
The other Kayas include: Kaya Giriama, Kaya Jibana, Kaya Kambe, Kaya Ribe, and the Rabai Kayas – all of which are in Kaloleni District. Then, there is Kaya Kauma in Kilifi, and the Duruma Kayas in Kinango.
Have you visited any of the other Kayas?