Lamu Old Town sits on an island of the same name, bordering the vast waters of the Indian Ocean. The Town’s scenery is stunning, with its authentic Swahili-style architecture, white sandy beaches and deep-blue sea, making it an ideal tourist location for those seeking warmer weather. You may have heard of this popular tourist spot, or even travelled there, but do you know about its ancient history?
Being true to its name, the establishment of Lamu Old Town dates back to the 12th Century. While other Swahili settlements along the East African Coast were abandoned or modernised over the years, Lamu has maintained its traditional nature. It is the best-preserved Swahili settlement to date and has continuously had inhabitants for the last 700 years.
The Town was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, for three specific reasons: its architecture and urban planning, its seaport and international economic trading role, and its numerous religious and cultural centres and traditional customs that have become fundamental to Swahili culture as a whole.
Lamu Old Town is a melting pot of several cultural influences that have blended together to create its own distinct culture. This is reflected in its century-old buildings that stand to this day. The broken pieces of Chinese porcelain used as decorations tell the story of the Chinese sailors who took refuge on the island in the 15th Century. The Lamu Fort tells of the Omani Arabs who occupied the Town after liberating it from Portuguese settlers, and the German Post Office holds the memories of the brief German occupation of the island. The narrow, winding arrangement of the streets mimics the Arabian style of urban planning and is meant to provide shade from the scorching heat. Because the streets are so narrow (no more than eight feet wide), most people walk on foot or use the only other means of transportation – donkeys.
Since the 16th Century, international players vied for control of Lamu Old Town due to its strategic location along the coast of the Indian Ocean. The Portuguese sent a fleet to the island, and as a result monopolised the Indian Ocean trade for majority of the 1500s. By the end of the 17th Century however, the Omani Arabs had successfully overthrown the Portuguese and taken over the Town, ushering it into its “Golden Age”, which was marked by economic prosperity and development. During their reign, the Omani rulers engaged in the Indian Ocean slave trade until it was banned, sometime between 1907 and 1910. Nonetheless, the many changes in rulership, as well as barter trade and intermarriages, contributed to what is now the distinct Lamu culture.
The Town itself has managed to stay true to its Swahili roots because of its people, who are a close-knit group. They celebrate their culture through the various annual festivals they have, including the Lamu Cultural Festival and the Maulidi Festival, which is an Islamic religious festival. Some would even call Lamu Old Town the cradle or hub of Swahili culture. It has been a pioneer of religious and cultural development in East Africa and has numerous centres (madrasa) for Islamic and Swahili education (there are almost 30 mosques on its 15.6ha of land).
Despite having been a World Heritage Site for quite some time, Lamu Old Town has recently been in danger of being delisted by UNESCO, due to the various attempts at modernisation of the Town. The once quiet maze of streets, populated only by humans and donkeys, now has boda bodas and even a few cars driving through it. Another major point of concern is the upcoming LAPSSET project, aimed at the construction of railway lines and airports in Lamu County, which may compromise the authenticity and preservation of Lamu Old Town. In 1986, the Lamu Stone Town Conservation Office (now known as The Lamu World Heritage Site and Conservation Office) was set up by the National Museums of Kenya to ensure that there is a balance between the developmental aspirations of the local community and the fundamental need to protect the architectural heritage of the Town.
Have you been to Lamu? What cultural aspect stood out to you? Share with us in the comments.