Situated between the seasonal Kalawasee River and the Turkwel River is Lodwar. To its west lies the Loima Hills which are visible from any corner of the town’s relatively flat landscape. These physical features that surround Lodwar as well as the heritage of the resident Turkana people makes it an interesting place to visit.
In 1919, the British established their army base in Lodwar and access to the town became restricted. As soldiers practiced their drills on the desert terrain, Lodwar became a seemingly unwelcoming place, solely hosting the men in uniform and the town’s residents. This remained the case until 1933 when a gentleman by the name Shah Mohammed moved into town. Arriving on the banks of the Turkwel River, Shah made his way into town and settled among the Turkana. He established a small business and as more people followed suit, went on to build a trading centre. Slowly, as outsiders visited Lodwar, some stayed on and made this their home while others went away with the intent to visit again.
Six years down the line, with the town’s settlement having grown significantly, Lodwar became the colonial government’s administrative centre for north western Kenya. Official buildings were put up, including a court of law and a government prison which was later used to detain Kenya’s freedom fighters. The court currently lies in ruins, but the prison, now known as Kenyatta House, still stands in place and is a significant building in Kenya’s historical journey.
Presently, Lodwar town is a mix of old and new, seamlessly blending the culture of the Turkana people with the urban development taking place. Locals garbed in the latest fashion trends still spot traditional beaded necklaces around their necks. Modern buildings are interspersed with manyattas, intricately woven by the town’s skillful residents. The lightweight material used in construction of these manyattas is sourced from the doum palm trees, locally referred to as Eng’ol, which grow along the banks of the Turkwel River.
Beyond construction of airy manyattas, Lodwar residents tap into their weaving skills to make baskets, mats, and brooms. These items are proudly displayed in the Lodwar Basketry Market where they are sold to tourists. As the retailers weave, they join their voices together in song, and the melody of their music is said to add to the beauty of their products.
With improvement of the road network, access into Lodwar town has improved. The town is a six hour journey by road from Kitale. For those unwilling to spend this much time on the road, a flight that touches down at Lodwar Airport would put you in the heart of the town in just a few hours, depending on where you board. Several higher learning institutions have also set up branches within the town, opening it up to serve as a learning centre.
